It’s the rainy days.

I think that some of the people in my life are a lot like rain. When the weather is good, I selflessly push them away. I never really understand their worth until the unforgiving summer comes. And  the heat of everything had dried me out of nothing. But it’s when the drought finally had me craving for a drop of their presence —that’s when I realize I need them.

Surfing the infinite waves of life

“You give up too easy, you have to fight for your balance”, says my surf trainer.

Riding my first wave at Billabong San Juan Surf School.

Surfing is a sport I never in my 17 years of existence, expected of experiencing. It’s one of those things that I consider “for your eyes only”. But until I rode my first “rent-a-surfboard”, everything changed.

As a beginner in the surfing scale, it’s pretty much normal for one to often stumble face first on the ocean floor. And since surfing involves coordination in every bit of your body, one wrong move and you fall.

But there was something about the way that my surf trainer pushed me to the limits. I hoped he noticed that all his mumbled instructions ended up floating above my head. Though I commend him for his patience for dummies like me, it was still not enough to keep me from falling.

It was when he uttered the words “You give up too easy, you have to fight for your balance”, that I really got shaken up. And I swore to myself that he just summarized the entirety of my life; Giving up and unsteadiness.

I thought for a second as I let the waves flow through my board. But it was like the waves were flowing through me. As if talking and trying to connect my experience between surfing and my life.

My surf-trainer is right about what he had said; I give up too easily, I get scared and unable to fight for my balance.

True enough, it did gave me the motivation I needed to finally listen to his instructions and just ride the wave and be a part of it.

And yes, I did manage to surf in the end.

It was all about feeling the “glide” as the wave rushes you to the shore, and standing up as soon as you hear that unforgiving go-signal. Comes next are the snap-second decisions you have to make on which body part of yours should you move; front, back, side, left of right.

For a moment, I survived staying on board, and it was the tangible balance that I worked-hard for.

Surfing really did teach me a pretty good lesson. Hopefully it wasn’t just the board that I can handle to balance; soon I hope it will be my life.

Dear Surfer, I was “wave-strucked” to meet you.

Dear Surfer Boy,

I can’t help but tuck strands of hair under the outline of my ears whenever I remember how you waved “hi” to me. It was unexpected and I was unguarded.

I was just resting my head on the unforgiving surfboard, as I paddled back from my 2nd wave. Tired and feeling hopeless, the instructions that my trainer tried to mumble just floated by. But as I try to lift my head and turned in your direction, you carelessly raised your left hand, smiled that straightforward smile, and waved hi.

Your hand-wave was almost as perfect as sea. And of course, I waved back. How couldn’t I when you looked so perfect in those skin tight surf gear? And your smile, oh it was the brightest that day.

My heart raced as it found an inspiration to get my head on the board and strive harder. But it sank as fast as it sped up when I remembered my awkward surfing poses (“Pugiit Style”) and the slimy snot flowing from my nose.

And it’s sad that we didn’t have the chance to trade names and other information. But the way we exchanged our hellos in the secrecy of our waves says it all.

I’ve already accepted the fact that us meeting again for the second time around is like finding a grain of white sand among the bed of grays. But if the universe feels like shifting, and we would by chance get on the same surf line, I hope your smile hasn’t changed.

And I want you to know, (just in case this message in the bottle reaches you and I hope it does), that I thank you for making my 1st surfing experience extra special. You’re wave will be remembered. Always.